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16/07/2015

Tips: Mazda Speed 6 OBDII emissions test with mods

This week I took the speed6 to do a mandatory OBDII emissions test, so I thought I'd share the results and some tips.

 

Here in the province of Ontario we have what's called the Drive Clean program. We're allowed to have 1 "not ready" emissions monitor and still pass the test, as long as the MIL is off. The rules are similar to many American states, if not identical.

 

If you have certain engine mods like me, you've probably turned off some DTCs using Accesstuner Race to keep the MIL off. You wouldn't pass an OBDII emissions test with the MIL on. But it's important to make sure that the DTCs that you've disabled do not affect any emissions-related monitors. If an emissions monitor is affected by a DTC that you've turned off in your map, that monitor will never move to the "ready" state - so keep that in mind.

 

I have the following DTCs disabled in my map:

 P0401 EGR flow insufficient detected

 P0403 EGR valve (stepper motor) circuit malfunction

 P2006 Variable swirl control system shutter valve stuck closed

 P2009 Variable swirl solenoid valve control circuit low

The first two DTCs take care of the EGR delete. Because they are disabled, the EGR emissions monitor will never move to the "ready" state. The last two DTCs take care of the VTCS delete - they have no effect on emissions monitors. Here's my test result (PASS - with only the EGR system not ready). Remember that I'm allowed to have 1 "not ready".

PASS.jpg

If I had a catless exhaust (which I don't) and I disabled the "catalytic system warm up" DTC (P0421?), I probably would not pass this test because the CATALYST monitor would never be "ready" and I would have 2 "not ready" monitors in total. If you find yourself in this situation, you should consider a hardware solution (spark plug de-fouler?) to keep the catalyst system happy, rather than disabling that DTC.

 

The easiest way to check if you will pass an OBDII emissions test is to buy a cheap OBDII scan tool I.E VXDIAG for Ford Mazda $ 99+ shipping that has the I/M (Inspection & Maintenance) feature, which allows you to check the readiness state of all emissions-related monitors. I paid $30 for mine on sale.

 

It's also helpful to have access to our service manual, in case a certain emissions monitor unrelated to your disabled DTCs is still in the "not ready" state. This can occur if you've recently disconnected the battery or reset the ECU, but haven't completed a full drive cycle yet. The service manual tells you the exact conditions and steps you need to follow to bring individual emissions systems to the "ready" state. Sure you can drive around for a while and keep scanning until "ready", but depending on your driving style certain systems will take weeks to become "ready". Following the service manual's drive cycle for each system can get the job done in a day or so.

 

Hope this helps.

05:23 Publié dans Blog, Shopping, Web | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)

15/07/2015

How to change VIN in TMFT (Door Module) e60 '03

Car model and year: BMW 530d e60 '03 

Symptoms: Got message on iDrive and airbags and seatbelts light on the screen all the time. In Local service mechanic told me after diagnostics, that Drivers door module got wrong chassis number (vin number) probably replaced doors ex.

restraint systems-01.jpg

light on-02.jpg

The procedure:

I manage to get working Inpa, NCS Expert and winkfp on my winxp laptop.

I Found Part number in INPA: 6957761

part number in inpa-03.jpg

Found VIN NUMBER in NCS Expert.

vin number in ncs expert-04.jpg

Then followed by these instruction I update vin with winkfp.

0 - Choose comfort mode.

1 - Select F3:- Update ZUSB

2 - Select ECU type and the ECU will appear along with a list of part numbers.

3 - Select ok and the main menu will re-appear

4 - Select VIN and enter the cars VIN no. and select OK. (FULL VIN)

5 - Select Done

6 - Select Prog. ZB_update, you will be asked to confirm the update, Winkfp wil state the number of times the module can be re-programmed.

 

While updating airbag and seatbelt lights was off, and after update they went back on... I was confused here. 

 

Then one experienced technician gave me suggestion:

Have you tried the FGNR_SCHREIBEN Job in NCSExpert?

It's worth a try... however it never managed to change a VIN on a DSC pump on an e90. Only WinKFP did it for me.

 

Solved

Finally, I sort that out. To get all working need 3 softwares. Winkfp, ncs expert and tool32

 

Where to get software Winkfp, ncs expert and tool32?

Rheingold ISTA-D ISTA-P is built in engineering programming tool including: E-sys, NCS-Expert, Winkfp, INPA, Tool32……

I bought ISTA-D3.48.20 ISTA-P 3.55.1.001 from obdexpress.co.uk, and never let me down.

http://www.obdexpress.co.uk/wholesale/rheingold-d-ista-p-... 

rheingold-d-ista-p-bmw-icom-win8-system-hdd-without-usb-1-05.jpg

The newest Rheingold ISTA-D 3.49.20 ISTA-P 55.4.000 for perfect version ICOM (SP168-BA and SP168-BO) is already available at:

http://www.obdexpress.co.uk/wholesale/super-icom-bmw-icom... 

super-icom-bmw-icom-a2-software-06.jpg

05:33 Publié dans Blog, Shopping, Web | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)

14/07/2015

Solution for 08 535i-Complete power Loss

This post is about my 08 BMW 535i power loss and got advice to use BMW scan tools. I.E ICOM, inpa, k+can to read and clear trouble code, then according to the code to fix the problem. 

 

BWM specific model and year: 2008 535i

 

Symptom: 

While driving on the interstate, casually, not speeding, the car lurched and threw a trans malfuntion light, then abs light, then very shortly after the idrive screen went blank, then overtemp light came on, then srs light. Then the dash gauges stopped working and the car began to loose power and eventually rolled to a stop. This all happened from start to finish in about 2 miles. 

 

What I have done: 

Turned igniton off, pulled the key and reinserted it attempting to start the car, nothing, completely dead. So I got someone to jump it off and tested the voltage at the battery and was showing 13 volts, as i suspected it was the alternator that had failed. Well, the car ran great, but had an error code,"high battery drain". Made it home with no issues, parked the car overnight. The next day I went to go to work and the car was completely dead again. 

 

So I get the car to my garage, install a new alternator after charging the battery and it starts right up, only now its telling me the oil level sensor has failed(which has never been an issue before) and the car is intermittently throwing the overtemp readout. This was in about 40 miles of driving, throwing the overtemp readout on and off about 5 times. This is also a new issue.

 

Advice from experienced technician:

Hopefully you won’t try to "reprogram the DME" before you've done the basic troubleshooting steps like pulling and then resetting the BMW-specific codes, registering the new battery, etc. Until you've done that, you're shooting in the dark. If you want to troubleshoot this issue yourself you'll need to either borrow or purchase the necessary BMW scanning tools. All you need is a smartphone app like BMWhat / Carly for BMW or Torque (not sure that latter will allow you to do battery registrations though) and a cheap $8 ELM327 Bluetooth adapter or better or get BMW inpa K+can cable.

 

DTC read out:

IBS fault-over maximum threshold, Coolant pump fault-no signal, Oil level sensor fault-over maximum threshold.

 

Then I tried to do but make no difference:

I was able to register the battery to the car and attempted to disconnect the IBS, but no joy. All problems still persist. I also attempted to test the coolant pump with a 50% and 95% run test, but made no difference to the coolant pump. It just ran at the same speed, with the ignition on, engine off. Sounded like it was barely running too. If I open a door or the trunk with the key not even in the car I can hear the pump running also.

 

More questions and answers:

Question 1:

once the car loses power everything goes haywire ... As you know it throws just about every error in the book and the error codes get stored due to the loss of voltage . And they might not all be active .

 

When you pulled the codes did you clear them ? Then running the car did those 3 errors come back and are they active faults ?

Answer: Yes they were all active faults and immediately returned after clearing them. 

 

Question 2:

Is the car starting ok ? Because the IBS and oil level sensor will cause a no start if they fail .

Also is the car over heating?

Answer: Ya car starts every time. It does throw the overheat message on the dash. First yellow, then red.

 

Question 3:

For peace of mind I would install a new water pump and thermostat and the lower hose and sensor . Are you still on the original water pump ?

Answer: I am, as far as I know, on the original pump. Car has 80k on it. Are you referring to the coolant temp sensor?

 

Question: 80,000 for sure change it , ya the temp sensor on the lower hose . You might as well swap it out with a new pump and thermostat.

05:22 Publié dans Blog, Shopping, Web | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)