topblog Ivoire blogs


How to choose Jaguar & Land Rover JLR diagnostic tool

Here is the buying guide with comparison of VXDIAG VCX NANO for Jaguar & Land Rover OEM diagnostic tool, JLR Mongoose cable, VCM2 scanner and DA-VINA J2534 interface.



vxdiag vcx nano JLR: €108 (best choice for diagnosis and ecu & key programming)

Mongoose cable clone: €48 (best solution of diagnosis)

JLR VCM2 chinese: €189

DA-VINA J2534: €100



workable with the genuine:

Mongoose & DA-VINDA interfaces work with the original JLR SDD IDS software.


Wi-Fi: vxdiag vcx nano, vcm 2

Basic diagnosis: all ok

Key making: vcm2, vxdiag nano, DA-VINA

Ecu programming: vcm2, vxdiag nano, DA-VINA

Offline programming: JLR SDD V141 (advised to use with VXDIAG VCX NANO diagnostic tool.)



New cars solution:

If you need to new Jaguar and Land Rover model up to 2014 year, DA dongle 2534 or Mongoose pro which version 139.14 up are recommended. Now the SDD version 145 is the one tested without any issues by thousands of people.



Vehicle coverage:

JLR Mangoose cable

Work on JLR models before 2014, including
Land Rover: L316, L319, L320, L322, L359, L538

Jaguar: X100, X150, X202, X250, X350, X351, X400
VXDIAG VCX NANO for Jaguar and Land Rover:

Work on Jaguar and Land Rover (2005 - 2014), including

Land Rover: L316, L319, L320, L322, L359, L405,L494, L550, L538

Jaguar: X100, X150, X152, X202, X250, X350, X351, X400


JLR VCM2 diagnostic scanner:
Defender, Discovery /LR3/LR4, Range Rover Sport & New Range Rover Sport, New Range Rover, Freelander /LR2, Evoque, XJ – X351, XK – X150, XF

* Range Rover (fully supported apart from viewing Data logger signals from both ECM and TCM

modules simultaneously on 2006MY variants)
DA-VINA SAE J2534 interface:

Work on JLR models after 2005, including
Defender, Discovery /LR3/LR4, Range Rover Sport & New Range Rover Sport, Range Rover, New Range Rover, Freelander /LR2, Evoque, XJ – X351, XK – X150, XF, Xtpye, Stpye and Ftype





vxdiag vcx nano JLR: €108 (best choice for diagnosis and ecu & key programming)

JLR Mongoose cable clone: €48 (best solution of diagnosis)



2015r3 TCS CDP PRO with BMW & Mercedes solutions

Here are some solutions of TCS CDP (cdp pro) running on BMW and Mercedes-Benz cars.


The reason that some CDP PRO cannot work with BMW or Mercedes-Benz:

The OKI chip is only for cars that support the PWM/VPWM protocol like Ford. BMW didn't use the PWM/VPWM protocol. The info that the TCS CDP does not work with BMW and Mercedes is bullshit.


The essential reason is located in problem with the m6636:

The problem with the m6636 is in the CDP pro not in cdp+. replace the 2 diodes and check if it works. the 2 diodes is for bmw and maybe mercedes, honda and others.


Solution of CDP PRO with BMW cars:

the 2 diodes are D701 and D703. back the pcb. And replace it with 1n4148.  I have replaced these two diodes and gained the communication with BMW cars which users could not communicate with before. So, well DONE


Solution of TCS CDP with BMW cars:
You have to know that the components for TCS CDP interface, removed from old devices like tv´s, radio´s etc. check all solder Joints of all components (especially relays), so I have fixed the problem. I use the same interface for all BMW cars and it works without problems.



If solutions above doesn’t work also, spend a little money to buy a new TCS CDP unit tested ok.

tcs-cdp-pro-bluetooth-bmw-2 tcs-cdp-pro-bluetooth-bmw-3

This CDP PRO with 2015r3 software works without issues on BMW 3 series e90:

05:38 Publié dans Blog, Shopping, Web | Tags : tcs cdp | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)


Honda HIM HDS pcb rework for car connection problem

So I have one of those chinese HDS clones and Racy Jace was due to pop over yesterday afternoon, so I wanted to be sure I could get my Honda HDS HIM
connected to my Accord before Jace got there.

Unfortunately this didn't happen, no matter what I tried, the darn thing would not connect, now I have always had trouble getting it connected up and its just a pain in the back side. I failed to get the thing working in time for Jace visit to my place.

After Jace left, I thought I have another go, order of connecting things up seems very important with these things, so I went shopping for them.
He confirmed that I seem to be doing everything right, connected HDS to Com port of PC (make sure it's COM1), power on HIM (the actual box - Honda Interface Module), switch on ignition, start up HDS (Honda Diagnostic Software), click on connect, when it tells you to, plugin the OBD connector and voila it should work.

Nope still not connecting !! So I carry on messing about, try differing combos of powering it and connecting it without any joy. DD suggested that CJs theory is physical comm ports won't work and you need a particular type of USB-serial-COM port cable with specific Prolific USB drivers. Now I do actually have this cable and those drivers installed but had no clue where the USB serial cable would be.

With the combos exhausted and with me now getting annoyed I thought I try something different, on the HDS software there is a Self Test mode but to do this self test you need the loop back dongle plugged into the end of the OBD connector, and the chances of finding that somewhere were slim. Another option was to update the firmware on the HIM. So I thought lets try that, so I try it and it asks to press the button on the HDS for a few second, I press the button and hey presto it starts updating the HIM firmware.

Great, so its not got any issues with com ports, that part is working just fine. It then came flooding back to me, last time I used my HIM I remember suspecting that there was either a break in the OBD wire that comes out of the HIM or a connection/circuit issue on my HIM that was causing it not to be able to talk to the car.

So this time I decided to take it apart and have a look inside, this is what I was immediately greeted with :-

These are the solder pins for the OBD wire


These are the pins of the connector that connects the top and bottom boards together

Now both sets of solder joints were looking in a right sorry state, mostly rather dull looking, these could be referred to as dud solder or cold solder joint, which could result in giving bad electrical connection.

So what they needed was to be reflowed but there were a lot of them and do properly them one at a time would a real ball ache.
So what I did was take my gas soldering iron, remove the solder tip and use it with a naked flame and just heat up all the joints.

Here's the result :-



Actually those pictures aren't that great but the end result was that all the solder joints looked much much better, they all now had a shiny look to them rather than a dull look.